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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.